Cheusok

Ok so here is what I have been up to. You might need popcorn for this …

First of all, school is a piece of cake these few weeks because some of my classes are cancelled (kids are writing midterms) and then I am about to tell you all about my big vacation, so life is just peachy. Last weekend I was in Suwon again, this time we hit up a soccer game and joined in as much as we could with the hundreds of organized fans singing songs and cheers, throwing confetti, lighting sparklers and waving flags practically in sync. It was a great atmosphere and the flags were hilarious too – it seemed not to matter what was on it, as long as it was the right colour (blues, whites and reds): there were France flags, some checkered ones, and even a Che Guevara face! Classic.

This past weekend was Cheusok, the Festival of the Harvest Moon, aka Korean Thanksgiving. The traditional dress for the holiday is called hanbok, and we saw several children in full attire throughout the weekend. This is a picture of my friend Andrea’s kindergarten class (my kids did not dress up. In fact, at my school we celebrated by having totally regular classes. How fun!). They are soo adorable. On Cheusok most Koreans travel from wherever they are to be with family, so many of my kids said they would be going to their grandparents’ houses (and hence the traffic you’ll be hearing about in a minute). And traditional food includes songpyun, rice cakes with sweet bean paste inside.

Naturally, being a foreigner, my Cheusok was rather non-traditional. With a local tour group I headed to Busan city, the second largest in Korea, for a weekend of surfing, partying, kite flying, sun-tanning and temple visiting fun. We left Saturday morning from Itawon, the foreigner’s district of Seoul and arrived only an hour behind schedule – a record in Korean time! We went straight to Haedong Yonggungsa Temple to walk around. There are not many temples located on the sea, making this one unique and very beautiful. Afterwards the bus took us to Aroma hotel where Beth and I shared room 506 (one floor above 306 because Korean 4 is like our 13) – and a circle bed with a mirror on the back! One can only imagine what that is used for. (Actually, affairs are so common here that many of the parking lots in hotels have drapes hanging over the entrance so you cannot see from the street whose car is inside. Or so I am told). We unpacked a little, wandered down the strip (and took a totally dark path, through the bushes and under a little bridge with water on either side of us) to find delicious Thai food and great company for dinner. Then a bunch of the people on the trip met on the beach for drinks later, and to share teaching stories of hilarious kids, classroom fights, crazy expectations and textbook troubles. It’s neat to have something so instantly in common with a group of strangers.

The next day it was time for surfing! At 10am we met to get boards and wetsuits. Then, encouraged by the man you would picture to be instructing a surfing class, Australian accent and all, we lined up on the beach, lay flat on our boards, and practiced getting up. The weather wasn’t great but needless to say, after 20 practice runs, I was no longer cold and had acquired a false sense of confidence that this would be a piece of cake. Oh the tricks your mind can play on you when you have two feet on the ground. And so, with much enthusiasm, I hit the waves. They were small in the morning, disappointly so, again until I realized how hard it is to stand even in the flattest of water. After an hour of exhausting paddling (the hardest part is getting an even speed with the wave before standing) Nathan (the Aussie) gave me several pushes and I got up! Now if only I could bring him to the next ocean in my pocket… I did actually learn how to get the speed right on my own, and by the afternoon the waves were so high that, as I got more and more tired, I would secretly wish not to catch the wave, because once it pushes you in to shore (yes I realize I am meant to be crossing the wave and not just riding it to shore but I’d like to see you try!) you had to get back OUT again. This is when the ocean really beats you up. Cuba girls, it was worse than coral reef snorkeling! But, like any challenge, you approach with determination and begin to try different strategies. And so I approached the chore of getting from shore to deep sea. I began with futile attempts to go straight through the wave, holding my board tightly – only to get knocked over and thrown around and, of course, lose my grip. And with the board attached to one ankle you have to be very careful that, when you come up after the wave is done with you, you avoid your own board hitting you in the face, all while catching your breath, wiping your burning eyes, trying not to drown or swallow too much salt water in hopes of avoiding dehydration and dysentery, and all before the next wave arrives 10 seconds later to beat you up again. (It was fun I swear!) Then of course you try going under the wave – a great strategy without a board but I did this only once, smacked my forehead on the board, and ruled out the strategy completely. I tried paddling, but it was too tiring. I even tried lifting the board over my head. Anyways I found my methods and it got easier, and I made it past the barrage of breaking white caps several more times before deciding it was definitely time for a break. After lunch the instructor and some of his friends hit the biggest waves of the day. They made it look sooo damn easy, just popping up right in the middle of the exact right big one, and riding it sideways (they only had to crash through the waves once – now that’s a solid strategy) that I was inspired and gave it one more go later in the afternoon. This time I mostly enjoyed the waves with body boarding, resting half in the water, and chatting with the other brave ones still at it – the few times I did chase a wave after lunch my arms were so tired I could barely push myself up let alone stand, sooo I bought a kite, and chilled on the beach for the rest of the afternoon. It was a great first experience and I cannot wait to try it again!

Sunday night I went out for galbi dinner with some of my new friends, in a little tent right off the main strip, with the background music of the sea and a local band next door. Then we headed into town to party. It was a great group of people on the trip, and we danced away our tiredness, leaving only periodically to buy soju and orange fanta (trust me you gotta have a chaser) across the street to drink on the steps because, at 900 won ($1) a bottle it was just soo much cheaper than buying drinks inside!

On Monday there was a little tour of Busan. Only about half the group went, so it was nice and intimate. We went out for lunch to my first floor-sitting restaurant, for delicious meat stew. That’s one of the things I really love about this place, so much is shared and communal. You make your food together so often, eat off each other plates. We were barefoot it the restaurant so when you go outside to the bathroom they provide little sandals for you to walk in. It’s really nice and creates a great atmosphere. In the afternoon we walked Taejongdae Park, squirmed our way through the fish market (this was seriously intense. There were women everywhere cutting up dead fish, pulling octopus or squid out of bowls of water, dragging buckets of guts and eyeballs through the streets, slopping everywhere over the side. I saw a man skinning an eel alive, insides still wiggling in a bowl on the table. I was so unprepared, just came around and BAM! helloooo live animal with no skin. Why it has to be alive, I have no idea. Where is PITA on this one? Maybe it tastes better than way or something but it just seems so totally cruel! We bought candy to sooth our souls, then headed up into the non-fishy streets for a sidewalk dinner – no fish!), and wandered in Nampodong Street with hundreds of others under the bright city lights. Click the pink link at the top of the right hand bar ("Cheusok pics") to see the pictures I have posted on facebook – they tell the story of this day much better.

Monday night was our last night. I was on the beach all night, and went to bed just after watching the sun come up on a beautiful clear day, pinks and oranges materializing over the Songiljeong Pavilion, standing half way in the ocean, my jeans soaking wet and sandy to the knees. 5 hours later I was back, packed and ready to go, this time in a bathing suit to get in the most sun I could (of course it’s the sunniest the day we leave!) before we had to board the bus.

For the Longest. Bus ride. Home. Ever.

I would like you to close your eyes picture the 400N on a Friday afternoon of a long weekend. Then times it by 10, add 3 lanes, a bus full of many different personalities (half of them drinking = many pit stops) and about 300 kms of road between you and the end goal. We practically drove across the entire country of South Korea, a little more than the distance between Ottawa to Toronto, in more time than it took me to FLY HERE FROM TORONTO. Fifteen hours to arrive home at 5:30am, just in time to catch the subway (which I will admit was a nice bonus since a cab would have cost a fortune, however the subway was also running at 9pm when we were supposed to be home!) Of course we made the most of it, watching Lost DVDs, sharing stories of traveling and home, and reminiscing about a wonderful weekend in Busan, that time we went surfing in the East China Sea, and the most amount of time anyone has ever spent going the shortest ever distance. I learned so many new things from everyone this weekend: new Korean words, must-see places, travel tips, how to fix my broken memory stick – hence I had to steal all my pitures from this trip from others – and now isn’t that just the beauty of traveling. Honestly though, I think if I was Korean I would celebrate Cheusok with any out of town family the weekend before!

And now I am off to make some homemade gimbap (rice and seaweed wraps) for dinner, nothing special just canned tuna inside, but I finally used my rice cooker so I’m happy. And then tomorrow starts a 2-day work week, poor me ☺

My messy apartment

As I sit in my pjs and look around my little apartment I realize that NOW it finally looks like somewhere I live: it's totally messy! I take this as a good sign. I have been busy this week, and busy is good.

Wednesday morning I went to Itaewon, the foreigner's district, for some quality exploring time. I found a huge English used book store, some delicious Indian food for lunch and random conversation with an American soldier and the restaurant owner (it's so nice to meet strangers in English!). I got thoroughly lost in adorable residential streets and alleys, it reminded me of Europe except with Kimchi cooking pots! I bought Heinz Ketchup at the foreigner's food market, and then made my way back to the subway before work.




I took some pics of my kids at school for you, too. Some of them wouldn't let me, but some were excited to have their picture taken, as you can see! Top left is the one I named Katelyn. There is also a Chrisite and a Sean so far (I haven't gotten to name very many!) but if I am lucky I will get a new class next semester so I can name more of them. (Yes sometimes it does bother me that I can't just memorize their Korean names but it's just more practical this way - I still don't know all their English names!)

Thursday night was Plus Academy sees Bourne Ultimatum, in reserved seats at the movie theater on the 10th floor of the biggest department store around. My favourite part might be the ride down in the glass elevator. Friday night was out for delicious Korean bbq again, and this time Song Min (a coworker) and his Aussie friend who is visiting came too. We had more beer than food, and we had a ton of food soooo we decided to keep the night going, head to the bar next door (in the pouring rain!) for more drinks, and then to my first Noreabang (karaoke) experience. I sang some Hilary, some Beyonce, a little Leann Rimes. It's great having your own private room (and bringing your own beer!)

Now it's Saturday morning, and I am up too early to head to Suwon for a lil' game of footy. I just wanted to say hi! :)

Weekends in Seoul

My first few adventures in the city have most definitely been momentous. Last weekend I ventured down to Suwon, a city just south of Seoul, to see Jess (a friend from university, she’s been here 2 months). We relaxed and caught up during the day. I hadn’t seen her in a while obviously so there was so much to tell, a somewhat challenging feat among the ‘omg I can’t believe you’re/I’m here’s’! Around 6pm we went to the convenience store, bought some beers and drank on the street corner waiting to meet her friends. They arrived and we took new beers in the cab, and then onto the subway! And I thought I was coming to a conservative country. After a delightful subway ride while I got to know her friends, we arrived in Songtan and went out for Thai food – on a chili pepper scale of one to five I ordered a two and had to sustain some teasing when I found it damn spicy!

We spent the rest of the evening (or shall I say morning) at three different bars: the first, a noisy, crowded room full of sweaty American soldiers trying to pick up and playing retro meets Saturday night at Phils line up. It was pretty fun despite my somewhat critical description! The second bar was called Cheers – I had my first soju (think Korean vodka) cocktail and the bartender was hilarious, picking on the soldiers and using all kinds of awesome English expressions to her advantage. The third bar had a dance floor with a pole. Enough said. Mair you would have been so proud of us! We were the only ones in the place so we made music requests and danced the rest of the night away, fuelled by a giant soju cocktail in a bowl (thanks Jason!) and some glow in the dark shots.

Monday night the teachers at two branches of Plus Academy got together for galbi – deliciously seasoned beef and all kinds of side dishes that you cook yourself (think Korean bbq – and at least 4 side dishes come with everything you order in this country!). The teaching week flew and then …

From top left: Andy, Jeremy, me, (Korean lady's thumb!) Leah, Ian, Jess, Mark, Beth, Kelly, Jenn.




This weekend we were at it again – a big dinner with the coworkers Friday night for bbq chicken here in town, followed by beers at the GS (roughly translated: Macs Milk! Landingers think Tim’s in high school as far as evening hang out goes, but we sit outside under the stars – no we have not yet figured out what we’ll do in the winter – and have traded the coffee for booze!) We were joined by Joy, a Korean coworker, for some hilarious anecdotes on teaching and Korean life. On Saturday I spent the day at two different shopping districts with some of the girls, bought a new dress and realized once and for all that I cannot buy shoes in this country. I am officially a giant; it’s really great for the self esteem! Saturday night I met Jess’ crowd again on my turf this time, and my coworker Beth came too so I wasn’t the only (newly dubbed) Seoul local of the bunch. Somehow I made it home around 5am (thanks to Beth’s genius thinking of writing out the name of our respective subway stops in Korean just in case) although I did have a minor scare when the driver announced we had arrived at my station and I recognized absolutely nothing – he was very patient while I panicked, finally realizing we were just on the other side of where I was used to. Phew! Melissa manages yet another day or madness in a monstrous and almost completely unknown world of strangers and symbols (although I am giving myself Korean lessons from a book that are going quite well). Plus, here in the land of competition and thus cheap everything, it’s $20 for a 45 minute cab ride. Not bad.

Oh, and I also must tell about a friend of a friend of my mom’s. He has been here 9 months and bought a motorcyle a few weeks ago, so we met up the other night, he shared his wisdom on this place, and then he drove me home on the back! Now, motorcycling here is not like it is at home. The rule seems to be, if you are on a bike you can do whatever happens to be your fancy at any given moment – running red lights, driving on the sidewalk, and weaving in and out of city traffic isn’t given a second thought in these parts. He was a great driver though, and I had a blast with the warm wind in my hair ☺ Don’t worry Mom, we only ran one red light! Hopefully we’ll see each other again, I could learn a lot from him; if not, it’s a good story for the books!

So how am I doing at not sounding homesick?! Trust me, I miss you all insanely and would love nothing more than to see your beautiful faces. I feel like I have been gone at least a month if not more. I guess that’s a good thing really ☺ I am sending love across the miles, and I will try not to make these so long all the time (especially since many of you have been writing, and have heard some of this before!) but no promises ☺ haha

I LOVE LOVE LOVE you all to bits.

Me!

Teaching Tales

My first week of teaching here in Korea reminded me very much of a ride with airplane turbulence – at times I was having fun, other times I felt rather fervently that each class would never end. I had several moments where, 5 minutes late for class, I had forgotten to photocopy something, or to find the right spot on the tape (yes tapes, not CDs) I needed to play. Thanks to a very helpful and supportive staff, I managed neither to freak out nor dissolve into tears this entire week. Can that be accomplishment enough? Now that it’s Friday (finally!), I feel like getting the hang of this won’t actually be so bad, and as the leader of our staff meetings reminded us (in an adorable accent, wearing a beautiful white dress with a black ribbon around the waist – I am in jeans remember!), despite the language barrier, “you are adult, they are children!”. So how hard can this be right?

My schedule at school is hectic. I teach 10 classes (which, when I finally counted, definitely helped me understand my stress level on day two), mostly different levels (determined both by age and child’s ability) although sometimes I have two sections of one level. I get 10 minute breaks between each hour and 10 minutes of class time, though most classes are only 35 minutes each (thank God). We have textbooks to work from (I use seven different ones), but often they are not enough to fill the time. Enter creativity. Soon! Each of my classes has a corresponding Korean teacher, some of which I am have met and some I haven’t yet (some came over to introduce themselves, mostly they have come because I filled out something wrong in the attendance books that are written entirely in Korean, go figure). They are all super nice. The kids have four classes a night – one with a foreign teacher like me and three with a Korean teacher (test class, listening class and something else I am not sure of).

The children themselves are not exactly what I expected little, hard-working Korean children to be like. Some of them are very smart indeed, and very cute, and I can't wait to get to know some of them better. But they can also be loud, unfocused and disrespectful during class. Or some don’t talk at all. (I am constantly battling with myself over which I hate more!) Who can blame them though, since, by 10pm, they have been in school for like 14 hours with perhaps a short dinner break? I have to keep reminding myself of that. If needed, my options for discipline are limited: I can give lines, or I can take them to the “stickman” for punishment. I do not believe this person actually hits them, just yells in Korean, however I can’t be sure. For a minute when this was being explained to me I thought I had to hit the kids myself – THAT was a stressful moment!

When I am not teaching I am marking (or let’s be serious there’s a third option: on the internet) – my coworkers say I will tire quickly of this but for now it is definitely my favourite part. The kids’ unfinished mastery of the language, coupled with attempts to use their little handheld translators, produces hilarious sentences. One child wrote a story the other day in her journal about her grandmother that ‘kicked the bucket’ last year. Of course, we often read these aloud to one another in the office.

And so begins my career as a teacher. I cannot yet tell if it will be a long or short one, but for now I am enjoying myself and I am excited to get better as the weeks go on. However, what I am most excited about at this very moment is the weekend!!! :)

Love, Teacher (my official new name – apparently this is how they handle having so many!)